Showing posts with label Gwabegar branch line. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gwabegar branch line. Show all posts

Wednesday, 18 December 2013

The Railway Guide to New South Wales (part one)

The expansion of the New South Wales railway network led to the NSW Government publishing the The Railway Guide of New South Wales: for the use of Tourists, Excursionists, and Others in 1879. Further network expansion led to an updated illustrated edition in 1884. Below we read the first entry on the partially opened section of the Wallerawang to Mudgee branch line. At the time of writing the end of the line was at Capertee.

Original kerosene mine, Hartly Vale
from The Railway Guide to NSW (1884)

Extension, Wallerawang to Mudgee

There is now in progress an extension from Wallerawang to Mudgee, a distance of about 85 miles. In May, 1882, a section of this line from Wallerawang to Capertee, a distance of 22 miles, was opened for traffic. The line passes through very rough country, the scenery resembling that passed between Mt. Victoria and Emu Plains, and in the vicinity of Capertee are some views that are unsupassed by the most noted on the Blue Mountains. Of the views near Capertee may be mentioned the Crown Ridge, a lofty and rocky mountain, from which a magnificent view is obtained; the Gorge, the rocks here resembling the rocks at the entrance to Port Jackson; and the Capertee Caves, interesting on account of the many impressions, apparently made by human hands, on the sides and walls. A great deal of traffic now passes through Capertee, making it a busy place. The station lies on the border of the extensive mining area embracing Gulgong, Mudgee, Cudgegong, Windeyer, Hargraves, Sofala, &c., and goods are received for these places. In other parts agriculture is carried on, and there is also forwarded from Capertee a considerable amount of pastoral produce and live stock. The extension to Mudgee is being pushed forward with all speed, and the opening is to take place on the 30th June 1884. With the extension of the line beyond Capertee this station will lose much of its present importance. Between Wallerawang and Capertee are some extensive lime quarries, and in the district splendid seams of coal exist, which however are not at present worked. Capertee contains three hotels.

Sunday, 15 December 2013

The Railway Guide of New South Wales (part 2)

The expansion of the New South Wales railway network led to the NSW Government publishing the The Railway Guide of New South Wales: for the use of Tourists, Excursionists, and Others in 1879 and 1884. Further network expansion led to an updated illustrated editions in 1886. Below we read part of the entry on the recently completed Wallerawang to Mudgee branch line transcribed from the 1886 edition. 

Zig-Zag railway, illustration by J C Hoyte
from 1886 Railway Guide of New South Wales 

Extension Wallerawang to Mudgee


The history of the Railway Extension to Mudgee shows a splendid proof of the success of persistency. For many years this extension was fought for determinedly by the Mudgee people; but various Governments, deterred by the heavy estimates given as to the cost of the line, and the dim prospect of a remunerative return, would not for a long time listen to the appeals of those interested, until at last one Ministry, seeing beyond the mountain barrier a wealthy land of promise and the opening up and development of mineral resources and wide areas of land, determined to propose the line, a proposition which met with the approval of the then Parliament. Accordingly the line was proceeded with, and in September, 1884, the Mudgee people heard the whistle of the iron horse as it gaily made its way across the plains bordering the quiet Cudgegong. The line starts from Wallerawang, which long enjoyed a greater share of prosperity by reason of its position as the junction of the Mudgee road with the Western Railway.

Piper’s Flat, 110 miles; 3,187 feet above sea-level. – The line runs north-west from Wallerawang outwards to Piper’s Flat, the first station; the country is uninteresting, the land being poor and timbered with stunted specimens of white gum. The station is kept busy only by the mineral traffic, the Wallerawang Company’s Coal-mine being in the vicinity, which, in 1884, had a contract to supply the Government with some 75,000 tons [of] coal at the remarkably low rate of 5s. per ton. The district is essentially a mining one, near the station coal is in abundance, and spread over the locality are extensive deposits of lime, which is principally shipped from the next platform, Ben Bullen, at 121 miles.

Capertee, 127 miles; 2,739 feet above sea-level. – The line from Ben Bullen to Capertee is uninteresting until within a short distance of Capertee, when, after emerging from the darkness of the Capertee tunnel, the traveller sees spread before him a glorious panoramic view of Capertee Valley. The railway skirts round its edges, and down below him extends the valley, its uneven and thickly timbered surface heaving, it would appear, like mighty waves. Far back stands a frowning battlement of dark bold rocks forming a head and crown to the body of the valley below, these cliffs wonderfully square and regular being aptly termed the Crown Ridge. The train in the fall of the year clears this spot towards sunset, and the long golden sunbeams of the evening as they gleam across the waving tree-tops in the valley, light up this crown with golden refulgence of light smoothing down its forbidding sternness and setting gems over its rocky face. The railway runs round this valley for some distance on its way to Rylstone, and between the steep cuttings a fair vista of this picturesque valley is every now and again seen. The valley contains good timber; but of course the difficulty of transit militates against any use being made of the forests. Good sporting is to be had in among the tall grey-gums, game being plentiful in the valley, and the kangaroos are as thick as sheep on a good run. Capertee cannot be called a thriving place; it boasts of one inn and occasionally sends a little traffic over towards the Turon (14 miles), where some gold seekers are working.

Ilford, 149 miles; 2,450 feet above sea-level. – Between Ilford and Capertee the line runs for some distance as already mentioned along the head of the Capertee valley, the line crawling as it were along the side of the cliffs that drop down into the valley. The cuttings are both numerous and extensive, and at times an uneasy feeling creeps over the traveller, that one of the overhanging rocks above him will fall across the ironway. The nature of the country at this place is that known as “rotten,” and in order to make traffic secure, and to prevent the probability of danger, the trains always run through in the daylight. The scenery is bold and striking, the mountains towering hundreds of feet overhead and the passing views are sufficiently varied to show a long succession of panoramic views as the trains sped onwards.




The original article continues with further descriptions of the trip towards Mudgee. The Railway Guide to New South View can be viewed at Lithgow Library or the State Library of New South Wales in Sydney.

Sunday, 11 August 2013

The view from the train window

While the nearby Blue Mountains attract most of the tourists, the Capertee district has stunning landscapes which are the equal of its better known neighbour. The local tourist office tries its best to promote the district, and recently described the Capertee Valley on its website, as an area of ‘spectacular scenery and timeless beauty’. Surprisingly  talking about the charms of the region is not a recent development. One of the first people to promote the tourist potential of the area was a letter writer to the Sydney Morning Herald in 1888. This anonymous correspondent took exception to an earlier report in the paper that ignored the scenic qualities of the Capertee area in a story about railway tourism within the state. 


Crown Ridge looking East, watercolour by Conrad Martens
Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW


SCENERY ON THE RAILWAY LINES

To a sub-leader of October 29 you make mention of the scenery along different lines of our railways, but I notice with regret that you omit mention altogether of the Mudgee line from Ben Bullen to Ilford, a distance of about 20 miles, the railway skirts the vast depression of the Capertee Valley, and as the train winds around the Crown Ridge, near Capertee Station, and further on by Carlos Gap and Brogan’s Creek, the view is in my opinion unequalled on any line of railway in the colony. The tremendous masses of Hawkesbury sandstone, in many cases showing a perpendicular unbroken face of 300ft., towering higher and yet higher in the distance, until the Bulga Mountains overlooking Singleton can be distinctly seen, and the lofty cone-shaped Tien Peak with its trigonometrical station at its summit, present all weathers one of the finest spectacles of rugged mountain scenery in Australia.

To those tourists who are tired of the beaten track of the Blue Mountains, as represented by Katoomba, Blackheath, and Mount Victoria, I would recommend a visit to the Capertee district. There is a hotel close to the railway station, where good accommodation can be obtained. I am confident that the beauties of this place are but to be seen and explored to be appreciated, and I predict a future before it second only to Katoomba. To the geologist it presents special features of interest. At few places in New South Wales are there so many or such a variety of fossil and petrefactions [sic] obtainable. The late Professor Denton spent some time at the place, and expressed great interest in all he saw. He gave it as his opinion that the vast depression was at one time one of the largest fresh-water lakes in the colony.

Thursday, 18 July 2013

Turning of the First Sod

Prior to the arrival of the railway in 1882 the village of Capertee was an ‘insignificant place’ on the road between Lithgow and Mudgee. While there were a few houses, farms and inns in the area the arrival of the railway was, arguably, the foundation event in the settlements history. In the Town and Country Journal (25th September 1880) we read of the excitement in the district when construction works began on the first section of the branch railway from Wallerawang to Capertee Camp (as Capertee village was then known).


Capertee Railway Station - the end of the first section of the Wallerawang to Mudgee branch line


Turning of the First Sod of the Mudgee-Wallerawang Railway

The small and quiet town of Wallerawang situated just beyond the Blue Mountains, is to-day the scene of the turning of the first sod of the railway to Mudgee, whose inhabitants are evincing great interest in the ceremony, and for their conveyance Cobb's coaches and almost every other description of vehicle has been brought to use. A good number of people from Mudgee and the surrounding district arrived yesterday and during the night. Two special coaches, heavily laden with passengers from these places reached Wallerawang at 9 o'clock this morning, and other people, many on horseback, are pouring into the hamlet. The few who arrived from Sydney and stations along the line by the mail train at half-past 1 o'clock this morning, found it impossible to secure accommodation, and several who came just before by the Mudgee coach were compelled to go to Lithgow, some 10 miles down the line. The Royal, Commercial, and Railway Hotels, and most of the private residences were crowded to their utmost extent with visitors. The night was frosty, and piercingly cold - so cold that your representative is conscious of the fact that he, thanks to the good nature of one of the station officials, escaped from freezing by being allowed to remain bedless and beddingless in the ladies' waiting-room. He passed a miserable night, and in a half-hour's slumber dreamt that he was undergoing some approved though prolonged process of refrigeration, and contemplates for a reason, afterwards thinking he is in Wallerawang. Daylight broke magnificently fine, and so far the sky has continued cloudless. For the special indulgence of the navvies, the contractors have furnished several large casks of beer; it is somewhat significant that where it is placed there are no holes, but abundance of water; the navvy force has been considerably augmented from the surrounding neighbourhood.

This section of the line to Mudgee is 22 miles 54 chains in extent, branching off the Great Western line at a point some quarter of a mile distant from the Wallerawang railway station, thence proceeding in a north-west direction, and ending at an insignificant place named Capertee Camp. The contractors are Messrs. Monie and Mathieson, who constructed the Dunolly and St. Arnaud line, and other large public works in Victoria. The amount of their tender for this section of the Mudgee railway was £180,600, and the time allowed for the completion of the contract is 19 months from the time of commencing. Operations were started on the 3rd of the present month. The work done up to the present consists principally of clearing the timber from the junction onwards. Already the timber has been cleared for some 11 miles, and cuttings scattered over the first eight miles are in progress. the timber for bridge piles has been hewn, and large quantities of bricks, stone, and earthenware pipes, for culverts and drains, are in readiness for use. Over 300 men are now employed, and in the course of a few months the contractors expect to have fully 1000 on the works, the number employed being increased every day. They have had no difficulty in procuring men, and none is anticipated, although good navvies are rather scarce so far. Bricks are brought from Lithgow, but the contractors propose to erect kilns and make their own bricks. The timber for piles can be obtained in abundance along the route, any kind, provided it is round, being used - except white gum, which is disallowed - and pile driving will commence next week. It is probable that, after the construction of the first few miles of railway from Wallerawang, various sub-contracts will be let by the contractor-in-chief. As is evident from the cost of this section, there are many cuttings to be made, more particularly towards the end of the section, in some places the ground being extremely hard and the cuttings deep. The deepest will be over 50ft, and the largest nearly 100,000 yards, including the only tunnel, which will be 187 yards in length. This cutting and tunnel will be made towards the end of the section, and others at different parts of the route. the line, in consequence of the roughness of the country over which it must pass, will be rather circuitous, and the curves almost continuous, though not near so great as those on the mountains. The deepest gradient will be one in 48, others varying from that downwards. The carrying out of this section will include the erection of seven timber bridges, all of one size, namely, 86 yards , crossing small creeks. No station will be required at any part, except at the end of the first section, for some time after the opening of the line, unless during its construction an impetus to settlement on some of the intermediate parts is given. The length of the line, when finished right through to Mudgee, will be 86 miles, to be made up of three sections. Whether or not the Government will await the completion of the first section before they invite tenders for the second or third is not known, and on this point the people of Mudgee, whom the railway will mostly benefit, evince some anxiety. Perhaps the want of railway communication with the town and district of Mudgee, and the inconvenience or rather distastefulness of travelling long distances by coach, as compared with travelling by rail, were never more demonstrated than at Wallerawang last evening when two Darlinghurst prisoners heavily ironed were brought from Sydney bound for Mudgee. They could not be seated on the box with their keeper, consequently two well-known and highly respected ladies, the only other passengers, had preference to sit nearly 12 hours in a small coach - with these gaol birds, who were attired in prison habiliments, and could not move withought the clanking of their irons being heard.

Saturday, 12 January 2013

Old Buildings: Capertee Railway Station

This historic railway station was built in 1882. It is a typical type 4 ‘standard roadside station’, a design introduced from the late 1870s by the New South Wales Government Railway (NSWGR), Engineer-in-Chief, John Whitton (1820-98). 

Sign on station platform
The design drawings for Capertee station were signed by Whitton on 17th February 1882. The plans were exhibited in Sydney from 28th February to 14th March 1882.  John Briton and William Cameron won the tender to build the railway station, the nearby goods warehouse (since demolished), and the still extant Station Master’s House.

This station was the terminus for stage one of the Wallerawang to Gwabegar branch line. Stage one opened in May 1882, with a 23 mile section of track from Wallerawang (on the main western line) to Capertee Camp (as Capertee was then known). The 330 feet long railway station platform at Capertee Camp (and stage one of the railway) was opened on 15th May 1882. The line was opened prior to completion of construction of the railway station building. Capertee Camp was renamed Capertee one month after the line opened. The Capertee railway station building was completed on 26th June 1882.


The local community outside Capertee Railway Station
welcomes a wounded soldier returning from World War 1
From Station Street (the eastern access road) the central building consists of three principal rooms. From left to right the rooms were used as a ladies waiting room, general waiting room and the ticket office/station master’s office. The design of this station included two ancillary buildings on each end of the main building. The small building on the left was a toilet block while the small building on the right was used as a lamp room. The lamp room was later used as a crib room (staff room} for track engineering staff.

The steady improvement of the road system saw a steady decline in passenger numbers using the branch railway line which led to its closure in 1987 (the siding tracks had been removed in 1984). With the formal closure of the station there was a proposal in the 1990s to demolish the building, but a campaign led by local residents saved the century-old structure. In the late 1990s a job creation scheme restored the building to an acceptable state of repair and the building was leased for several years to the Capertee Social Club as a venue for village events. A low picket fence along the platform protects visitors from falling on the railway line which is now only used for goods traffic. Recently the station was painted in a ‘heritage’ colour scheme. The windows are currently bordered up and the property is now available for lease.

It should be noted that this station is not listed on the NSW State Heritage Register or the Lithgow Council Local Environment Plan.

Tuesday, 1 January 2013

Night Train to Capertee

Several years ago we came across the following short story in a 1950 issue of the Bulletin. The piece was written by the Australian journalist and author Charles Shaw (1900-1955). Shaw wrote many short stories, and at one time was the rural reporter for the Bulletin magazine. He wrote several books during his career as well as some verse. He is best remembered for his late career best-seller, Heaven Knows, Mister Allison (1952), a novel about an American marine and a nun, stranded on a Pacific island during Japanese occupation in World War II. It was later released by 20th Century Fox in 1957, and starred Deborah Kerr and Robert Mitchum.

Night train to Capertee fictionally documents the experience of travelling on the night mail train from Sydney to Capertee sometime during the 1930s or 40s. I think you will agree that this piece certainly challenges the nostalgic view many have of rail travel in the steam age.


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Night Train to Capertee 
by Charles Shaw


The compartment held one other occupant, a small man with a seamed face, a large moustache and a battered tweed cap from beneath whose visor gleamed two bright, round, shallow, simian eyes. The rest of him was hidden in a black overcoat whose collar met the tweed cap at sides and rear.
He didn’t move, but I was conscious of those restless, darting eyes watching everything I did. I’d got the window seat opposite him, and settled into it, glad to find the compartment uncrowded but hoping someone else would come to distract those eyes and help me rid my mind of the silly impression that I’d seen him the last time I was at the zoo.
“Goin’ far, mate?” The mouth under the moustache opened in a wide, ingratiating grin and for a moment I thought it was filled with black watermelon seeds, so broken and discoloured were the teeth.
“Capertee,” I answered.
“Aw.” He apparently lost interest, for he hunkered even father down into the overcoat and appeared to doze.
I looked out of the window into the rain and dark gleams along the rails, where electric-lights played with the night. Beyond the immediate platforms suburban electric-trains came and went, and I looked at them and their passengers with that aloof feeling you get in a night train bound for the country. It’s as though you were departing to another world severing yourself from the city and its ways. If there is rain and the night be late the aloofness is more poignant, for you look from your lighted carriage into streets that are suddenly alien and strange, and your train runs through them proudly and imperiously, and you are superior because you look upon the sleeping suburbs with a sweeping and scornful glance, knowing that in the houses and hovels the people cannot look at you. You can, if you have the imagination for it, feel like a tolerant and slightly contemptuous god making a night tour of earth.
At Strathfield the suburbs rushed back into their real form, and poured more passengers into the train. A very fat, deplorably well-dressed young man, deplorably sozzled, fell into the third corner seat and fell into an alcoholic slumber, his pudgy hands rammed deeply into trouser-pockets and his lumpy legs stuck straight out. Next to me came a thin lady of doubtful years with the most determinedly virtuous face I’ve seen on a female, and with her she had a gangling boy and two small girls. All three were neatly-dressed children of excellent behaviour, and they sat beside the lady and looked shyly about them in silence. The boy caught sight of simian eyes across the compartment. He eyed their owner carefully, looked away, looked at them again, then moved protectively, and as though seeking protection, closer to the little girls. The black watermelon seeds were exposed, there was a convulsive heave of the black overcoat, and from it there emerged a maculate hand clutching a paper-bag.
“Yere, have some lollies?”
The boy shot a look at the lady, at the bag, at the watermelon seeds, and then appeared to shrink. The little girls sat like statues, their eyes on the hand and the bag.
The lady said, winningly, “Thank you very much. But really they’re so full they simply couldn’t” –
“How about you, mate?” The bag was thrust under my nose.
Some telepathic wave from the lady impelled me to rescue her.
“Keep you from wantin’ t’ smoke,” said the melon-seeds.
I grinned and crunched.

“Mary Wells,” said the fat drunk clearly, “is a little bitch. She ought to be shot!”
This declaration created an astounded silence. The children’s attention was at once removed from the melon-seeds to the fat man. I could almost feel the lady beside me turning cold. At that instant the door opened and three men entered. The diversion of their entrance and their placing of bags and finding seats, and the railway authorities’ happening to choose the same moment to release the train from its anchors, rendered the fat man’s statement no longer important. The train gathered speed, the drunk slept, the black teeth crunched the lollies, the lady and her brood relaxed, the other three settled down.
I resumed my game of being god touring the rain-wet suburbs by night.
The boy decided that it was necessary for him to visit the lavatory, probably because a travelling lavatory was a novelty that had to be investigated. These “dog-box” cars are separate units. Once you ‘re in and the train is travelling you are a prisoner until it stops again and an official comes along and unlocks the door. Consequently, the end of one seat is hinged, so that it can be raised to allow ingress to the tiny lavatory built into the “dog-box.” If you are a boy you quickly discover the fascination of going into the lavatory – it is all the more so if someone occupies the hinged part of the seat and has to get up to let you pass – and lifting the cover and hearing the roar of the train come rushing up through the hole out of the black night. You drop dead matches and bits of toilet-paper and whatever else you can find down the hole and are awed by the violence with which they are swallowed up in that menacing roar. Presently you must , for very shame’s sake, go back to your seat, and the passenger on the hinge once more rises politely to let you pass.
Thrice between Strathfield and Penrith the boy succumbed to the temptation, and his elder sister was’nt long in emulating him. This drew attention to the passenger on the hinge, who turned out to be a vague fellow with a whacking great bandage around his head.
“Didjer get that in a naccident?” asked the melon-seeds.

It was a dreadful mistake, for the bandaged one at once sat up and gave the compartment a long, accurately and gruesomely detailed account of an “operation done to me ear” from the initial pain down to the very last drop of pus. He then asked the lady if the children would stand up, which they did, whereupon he opened a bag and took therefrom a vacuum flask and a fearful apparatus of tubes and steel, filled the small tank attached to it with a yellow mixture from the vacuum flask, handed the whole outfit to the young man sitting opposite, indicated the nozzle and a bilb which had to be squeezed, unrolled his bandage, displayed to the dismayed lady an awful-looking red and yellow mass of an ear, laid himself down on the space vacated by the children, inserted the nozzle into his ear, and to the young man holding the bulb said, “Now pump her gently. It’ll hurt an’ I might yell, but you just keep on pumpin’.”
The young man gave us all a wild and terrified look, convulsively squeezed the bulb, and the patient let out a heart-rending screech. The young man dropped the bulb and stared white-faced at the patient, who groaned and twisted on the seat, to the interest of the children. The small man with the monkey eyes leaned forward, raising nothing. The other sober man was plainly affronted by the whole clinical performance.
“Pump,” moaned the patient, his hands clapped to his head. “Keep on pumpin’.”
Like a shot the boy picked up the bulb and held it to the young man, who shuddered and withdrew. With deep concentration the boy pumped, his sisters’ admiring eyes upon him, and at the next yelp from the patient the lady stood up, took the bulb and began pumping. The young man who had first held the bulb fell across me in a faint.
“The water-bottle,” I cried. “Get me the water-bottle.”
“A blasted bitch; that’s what Mary Wells is,” snorted the fat man, turning clumsily in his sleep.

After a time we got some order out of it all. The fainter recovered, the patient rebandaged his head and sat, shaken and silent, on his hinge. The children sat down again and talked lowly together, the drunk breathed heavily, the tweed cap was pulled down over the darting eyes, the rest composed themselves and the train roared into Penrith.
Here everybody except the fat man left the compartment and joined battle with the rest of the train in the refreshment-room, where, after a butting and scrambling, one emerged in possession of a lukewarm meat-pie and a thick cup of so-called tea.
By the time we were aboard again the early reserve between strangers had been somewhat dissolved, and while the tweed cap and the bandaged one shouted at one another diagonally across the carriage on the dreadful financial position of the working man – a discussion in which the “greedy Jew financhers in New York” were promised direful punishments “if ever Jack Lang gets hold of them” – the young man opposite asked me if I was going far. Few people on a train ever directly ask one’s destination – it is always whether one is going far.
“Capertee,” I said.
“Oh, Capertee,” he said brightly.
I now saw that he was a pleasant chap, quite young and candid, obviously a clerk of some sort. I ought to have been warned by the expression of eager diffidence, by the anticipatory glean in his frank blue eyes, but I wasn’t and when he said, in atone at one confiding and slightly boastful, “Know it well. It’s the thirty-third station past Penrith,” I echoed with stupid curiosity, “The thirty-third?”

We now had the attention of the financial debaters, the lady, the other sober man. The fat man slept; so did the children, who were loosely bundled together.
“Yes,” said the frank youngster, and too late I realised he was gloating. “Yes. Thirty-three. After Penrith there’s Log Cabin, then Emu Plains, Glenbrook, Woodford, Blaxland, Warrimoo, Valley Heights, Springwood, Faulconbridge, Linden, Hazelbrook, Lawson – that’s after the poet, you know [I felt that he was wrong] – Bullaburra, Wentworth Falls – friend of mine keeps the pub there” –
“What’s his name?” from the tweed Cap.
“Leura – his name’s Joe – Katoomba, Medlow Bath, Blackheath, Mt. Victoria, Hartley Vale, Bell, Newnes Junction, Clarence, Lithgow, Bowenfels, Marrangaroo – like kangaroo only with Mar on it – Wallerawang, Irondale, Piper’s Flat, Portland, Cullen Bullen, Ben Bullen and Capertee. How’s that!”
“Strike me fat,” marvelled the tweed cap.
“Yes,” said the performer modestly, “and I could go right on to Mudgee if you like.”
“I’ll bet you could,” I said, with slight sarcasm. He leaned back, the financial debate was resumed, and I looked out at the wet sides of a cutting rolling by, the train by this time labouring up the grade of the Blue Mountains. Later, I took the trouble to check the young man’s list and he was right to the last Bullen of them all.

The train had two engines hauling it and on the curves ahead I could see both of them. The headlight of the leader cut through the rain and both jetted forth clouds of steam. I could hear their cylinders coughing and their driving-rods pounding over the rails, and every now and then a fire-box door opened and lurid shadows danced on the white pillars of steam. They looked like great black monsters out of the Pit, butting their gleaming shoulders against the wall of the night and thrusting it aside. Bushes, trees, posts, stones, cutting-walls swam into the blaze of the headlight and vanished and all the time the steam poured forth and the shudder of the giants at their labour roared along the train. The curve straightened; I lost them and looked again at my companions.
“I’m going back to Mudgee,” volunteered the frank young man; “but not for long. Work in a store there. But it’s no place if you got ambition.” He looked at me, to see whether I had any of it, I suppose, and apparently assured that I had and therefore knew that Mudgee was no nursery for it, continued, “Never get on be sticking there. What I told the girl-friend. So I bin down seeing about a job in the State Lottery Office. Look like getting it. The girl-friend, her old man knows the member for the district. Man’ll have a chance working there. Get somewhere. Mudgee’s no place if you got ambition.”
I had a vision of the population of Mudgee being stifled in a bog, but it was cut short by the sober man, a rather saturnine fellow whose most-distinctive piece of apparel was a red-and-white bow tie.
“I was told Mudgee was a good town,” he said, somewhat violently and restlessly, as though fearing he had been imposed upon. “They told me it was a good town.”
“Depends,” said the ambitious man cautiously.
“Well, they told me it was a good town,” insisted the bow tie.
“All towns is good towns if you’re doin’ all right,” put in the tweed cap.

A long-drawn hoot from the engine cut the discussion short, for it caused the bandaged man to start and lean sideways, trying to peer out the window.
“Katoomba,” said the ambitious one confidently. “Know ‘em  all.”
“What? Katoomba!” The bandaged one became anxious.
He reached down his bag and opened it. A dead silence fell as we watched the fell preparations. Out came the vacuum flask, out the apparatus with its tubes and steelware and bulb.  Off came the lid of the tank and in went the yellow fluid from the flask.
He stood up in the carriage, looked grimly at the children and at the lady. The lady compressed her determinedly virtuous lips and ignored him.
“We’ll have to stand up,” he said, to the ambitious man. “If you stand on the seat there, we’ll manage.”

Before he could evade it the ambitious man held the apparatus and the bulb; the bandage came off, the awful ear was exposed. Like one in a trance the ambitious man got up on the seat, hanging on to the luggage-rack with one hand, juggling the contrivance. The sufferer inclined his head and inserted the nozzle, the bulb was squeezed, there came the cry of agony, I felt the lady next to me tremble, the children stirred and mumbled and the train came to a long, clanking stop.
The ambitious man got down from the seat, handed the apparatus to its owner, sank weakly to the cushions and said “Katoomba.” It was one o’clock in the morning. Another three hours to Capertee.


After Katoomba the train lost one engine and put on speed. All of us were lulled to sleep. I remembered seeing an electric sign of some sort flashing, and the next thing I knew was being violently shaken and the bright, simian, eyes glaring at me from between the watermelon seeds came the significant message, “Mount Vic, Dig. Wanna cup o’tea?”
It was exactly what I did want, and all of us except the fat man and the two little girls got out and scrambled along the platform. When I reached the refreshment-room there were solid ranks of travellers between me and the refreshment. I danced anxiously up and down, but it was hopeless, and when somebody cried “All aboord, pleez!” I gave up and was swept back to the train in the crowd.
Hungry and irritable and seeing nothing to love in my fellows, I made ready to come heavily with sarcasm or cruelty on the first of them who spoke to me. They bundled into the train, the children sleepy-eyed and as fretful as myself, the bandaged man aloof and alien, the others little more than blurred shapes from whom the heat of the compartment brought steam and an odor compounded of wet clothing and tired bodies. Against my hip pressed the bony hip of the lady next to me, and I had a wild desire to take her hand.
“We could put a rug over our knees,” I’d say, “and then nobody would know. I’ve always loved thin women of thirty-odd,” I’d say, “because their virtue is a banner before the world and” – my thoughts stopped abruptly, for a large paper-bag was under my nose, smelling hotly of meat and pastry and gravy.
“Got in first,” said the young man of ambition, “an’ reckoned I better grab a few pies for everybody. Go on, have one.”

I swallowed my contemplated sarcasms with the first rich, pleasing, luscious bite at the pie. The bag was passed round. The tweed cap prodded the fat drunk, who was still asleep, and he came awake with startling suddenness, looked wildly round like a lost soul who had suddenly found itself on a dark and barren planet in outer space and demanded, “What train’s this? What train’s this?”
“Mudgee mail,” replied the ambitious youth.
“It ain’t the one they shot Mary Wells on,” added the tweed cap, and fell into demoniac laughter and choked on his pie and made a general exhibition of himself. This awoke the smaller girl who sat up and cried at the top of her voice until the lady gathered her on her thin lap and hushed her. The other children did’nt stir.
The now-sober fat man ignored us all, dropped the window and put his head into the streaming night. Then he drew it back and said, “Aincha got any sense? What train is it?”
“Mudgee mail.”
“Well, I gotter get out at ‘Wang,” he asserted, with faint belligerence. “I gotter get out there.” He looked slowly round the compartment, giving each of us a close scrutiny from his little eyes, then he stood up, turned his back on us all, reached down a bag from the rack, fished in it, brought forth a bottle of whiskey, found the thick glass in its iron ring on the carriage wall, poured a stiff dose of whiskey into it and drank it quickly.
The atmosphere at once acquired a new bouquet. The fat man put the empty glass on the seat, re-stoppered the bottle, slipped it into his overcoat pocket, replaced the bag on the rack and settled into his seat.
“How far t’ ‘Wang?” he asked civilly enough. (Wang is an abbreviation of Wallerawang).
“We just left Mount Vic,” said the tweed cap, and added, pointedly, “You’ll just about make it on y’r whiskey; that’s if y’ don’t go sharin’ it with anybody.”
The fat man looked at him and his blank face slowly took on a look of intense hate. It began somewhere about his mouth and spread slowly until even his ears were red with it.
“I bet you could go your share,” he said slowly.
“Y’ can stick it,” said tweed cap, with a snap like an angry terrier.

The imminence of drama silenced the carriage, except for the roar of the train. The fat man turned slowly in his seat and eyed the other from the tweed cap to the muddy shoes, and the hatred on his face was a thing to wonder at. He shot to his feet with astonishing agility: violently wrenched the bottle from his pocket and thrust it so fiercely at the tweed cap that its wearer bumped his head violently on the back of his seat as he jerked it back.
“Have a ruddy drink,” wheezed the fat man angrily. “Have a ruddy drink an’ don’t have so flamin’ much t’ say about it. Go on, have a ruddy drink. I wouldn’t see a poor, half-starved – go short of a drink.
The fat man instantly appealed to us. “Here y’ are. He made a song-and-dance about it an’ when a man offers him a ruddy drink he don’t want it.”
He turned back to the little man.
“I got no time for mugs like you,” he gritted. “You have a flamin’ drink or” – he made a threatening grimace.
The little man’s hand reached out and captured the bag of pies from the gawking man of ambition. He brought it forward under the fat man’s attention.
“What y’ want mate,” he said sweetly, “is somethin’ in y’r guts. Have one of these.”
“You have a drink,” insisted the fat man, with some diminution of his rage.
“You have a pie.”
Out of the night  the engine hooted at us.
“Lithgow comin’ up,” said the man who knew ‘em to the last Bullen. We glanced at him impatiently and warningly.
“You have a drink.”
“You have a pie.”
It looked like deadlock, until the fat man suddenly took the paper-bag, at the same time as the little man took the whiskey-bottle. My own pie had disappeared to the place appointed for it.
The fat man sat down, a pie in his pudgy fist. The tweed cap poured a mild portion into the glass. I looked round the compartment, meeting looks of relief queerly mixed with disappointment. The tweed cap absorbed the whiskey lingeringly, but my eyes were on the fat man, for with the end of their talk his hatred had returned and I could see his eyes glaring malevolently at the floor. He disposed of the first pie, reached into the bag, took another, looked at it with a queer, blurred light in his eyes, then turned and reached across and squashed it firmly into the face under the tweed cap.

As the train rattled through the Lithgow yards, slowing for the station, we got them apart and put ourselves as a barrier between them while the little man went into the lavatory and cleaned the pie off himself. Instead of being appalled by his act, the fat man was elated by it.
“That stopped him. That stopped him,” he chuckled, full of glee.
The lady astonished us by saying, “It served him right. He had far too much to say.”
The train had stopped.
“Who’ll have a drink?” the fat man asked happily.
“By God,” declared the bandaged one, “that’s just what I could do with.” He took the bottle, upended it to his mouth, gurgled twice, wiped the bottle with his other hand, returned it, wheeled, grabbed his bag of surgical implements, opened the door and with “So long all,” disappeared into the maw of unconscious Lithgow.
The train was moving as the little man came from the lavatory, the watermelon seeds showing where the top-half of one lip was lifted. We watched him anxiously as he went quietly to his seat. He sat with his hands on his knees, watching the lights of Lithgow go past, and all of us had a sensation of tenseness, for we were convinced he was merely waiting till the train got clear of the station.
As much of his face as could be seen between cap and moustache was a pasty white, and the little simian eyes shone in it like live coals. His knotted little hands clenched and unclenched themselves on his knees. I saw his tongue flicker along his lips. Then he arose, looked out of the window, seemed to draw himself in, spat with a cold viciousness on the floor of the carriage, turned and looked at us.
“I see we lost the bloke with the bung ear,” he said mildly, and sat down again.

This anticlimax went through the carriage like a sigh. I could feel everybody withdrawing into themselves, becoming strangers again. Even the man with the red-spotted tie, the most silent and immobile of us all, seemed to draw off into some further distance of his own, where no doubt he brooded on the deep question as to whether or not Mudgee was a good town. And the train roared on.
At Wallerawang there was a slight aftermath. There we lost the fat man, who, as he departed, looked at his enemy and said, with a queer hopefulness which rather startled me, “Well, so long. Reckon I’ll run across y’ somewhere; when y’ ain’t got a mob with y’.” He was gone before anyone could reply.
In this place we got two young girls. Lively young things full of apology for disturbing us, and with those strange and seemingly vapid half-finished sentences accompanied by giggles and significant looks at each other and sidelong looks at the males in the vicinity. Both wore macintoshes which they promptly threw open to reveal sweatered torsos from which nature stood out in a way nobody could ignore, and they repaired whatever damage the night and the rain had done to their faces, and stole looks at us and conversed in spasmodic gasps. Their entrance had galvanised both the ambitious young man and he of the red-dotted tie, who now sat up with bright eyes and smiles ready to break out at the slightest hint of encouragement.
Being married and elderly I pulled my hat over my eyes and pretended to doze, using this stratagem to study those supple torsos and the shapes pushing against the sweaters. The lady beside me was leaning back with closed eyes, one child in her lap and the other two huddled against her in slumber. Opposite me the simian eyes under the tweed cap flashed from the girls to the young men and back again, missing nothing. By the time the train was running through Piper’s Flat – the ambitious young man announced it, of course, through no piper greeted us – the opening gambits had been made and responded to, and the four were together at one end of the compartment. I was astonished by the suddenly-developed conversational powers of the wearer of the red-dotted tie, who now seemed to have decided that Mudgee was likely to be a good town.
Some such thought must have occurred to the tweed cap, for from under it, harshly and suddenly, as though determined to drown all other sound and thought came, “They got a brewery in Mudgee, but the police sergeant there is tough as hell.”

While I was trying to estimate the nuances of the advantage of having one brewery as against one tough police sergeant, the train slowed and a voice cried “Ben! Ben! Who wants Ben?”
This was discovered to be a porter, out in the wet darkness being sardonic in his misery, for it appeared nobody wanted Ben (Bullen), and the train gathered speed.
I realised that Capertee was at hand and was glad of it, for the advent of the girls had somehow divided the passengers into two groups, and the ease with which the young men had left us for other interests reminded me that it was dark and wet outside, and I would probably have to wait until dawn on a lonely and deserted country platform.

Sunday, 18 November 2012

Old Buildings: Station Master's House, Capertee

The Station Master's House in Capertee is the oldest surviving residence in the village and has historic significance, not only to the establishment of Capertee, but also to the history of the NSW railway system. 

The 1882 Station Master's House in Capertee

With the construction of the Gwabegar branch line it was decided to build a railway station at Capertee Camp (as the settlement was first known). On 17 February 1882 John Whitton (Chief Engineer of the NSW Government Railway) signed an illustration detailing the construction of the current Station Master’s House. Plans were drawn for the building in March 1882 and the house was built later that year.

This brick building is a fine example of a ‘Type 5’ Station Master’s residence built by the New South Wales Government Railway in the second half of the nineteenth century. Similar designs can be found at Lue, Rylstone, Kelso and Blackheath. This type of design features a full width verandah across the front of the house and an 'L' shaped floor plan. It was mostly used at larger way-side locations, being widely used in the 1880s. It is an attractive local landmark close to the Capertee railway station which was also built in 1882.
                 

As you would expect the Station Master's House
is close to Capertee Railway Station

The Station Master’s House was sold by State Rail in 1990 by which time it was very run down. Most of the interior was gutted and the grounds were full of scrap metal and weeds. Despite this the original 1880s iron roof has survived. The house was restored and the attractive picket fence constructed. It was then sold in 2002 to the current owner who has continued to restore the property and has extensively researched the history of the property and its many former occupants. The Station Master's House is  now used for short term holiday rentals. It's a popular choice with bird watchers, being on the edge of the Capertee Valley.

Link to owners Stayz accommodation website for this property: http://www.stayz.com.au/14862


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